Few travellers reach Nepal's far west, and tourism in Doti is still underdeveloped. Silgadhi is one of the region's oldest towns. It sits in Sudurpashchim Province at 1,310 metres and forms part of Dipayal Silgadhi Municipality, the headquarters of Doti District, where almost all district offices are located. The district covers 2,025 square kilometres and had 211,746 people in the 2011 census. The name Doti is thought to come from "Dovati," meaning "land between two rivers."
The town lies near the Seti River in Doti's mid-hills. Across the district, elevation ranges from about 600 metres to 4,000 metres. Besides the Seti, the main rivers are the Thuligadh, Kalgad, Sahiligad and Gandakigad. The surrounding land is mostly forest, farmland and hill villages, with views of the Himalayan range. Khaptad National Park, known for its diverse plants and animals, can be reached from Silgadhi.
Silgadhi was a trade and administrative centre, and a capital, of the medieval Doti Kingdom. The kingdom formed after the Katyuri Kingdom broke up in the 13th century and was founded by Niranjan Malla Dev. Its rulers, the Raikas, controlled land from the Ramganga River to the Karnali. In 1790, Gorkhali forces conquered Doti after fighting at Nari-Dang on the Seti River. Local accounts say many historical sites were destroyed afterwards. Silgadhi is also described as the birthplace of Dwarika Devi Thakurani, Nepal's first female cabinet minister.
The old bazaar lanes still have whitewashed houses in the traditional Khasa hill style. The town's main landmark is the Shaileshwari Temple, and local people pray to the goddess before starting any work. Sources differ on whether she is a form of Durga or Parvati [conflicting sources]. The temple complex also holds a Shiva lingam and shrines to Ganesh, Chaturbhuj Narayan, Masta and Bhairab. Residents speak Doteli, which is related to Kumaoni, and perform the Deuda circle dance during Gaura Parva and Dashain.
Silgadhi is about 800 kilometres from Kathmandu, and there is no direct bus. Most travellers take a bus to Dhangadhi, then continue by bus or taxi. Microbuses run from Dipayal Silgadhi to Dhangadhi between 6:30 am and 12 pm. A Bajura bus also travels directly to Kathmandu. Silgadhi has an airport. Hotels include Saileswori, Lord Buddha and Bhandari.
Expect a long road journey and simple facilities, as transport and health services are still being improved. Local meals are basic, built around dhido and gundruk. Plan your return route to Dhangadhi in advance. If you are heading to Khaptad, use Silgadhi as your base.
