NEPAL TRAVELLER
If you want to hone your climbing skill in order to climb peaks above 8,00m, then you must try climbing in island peaks. Imja Tse, also known as Island Peak, is situated at the height of 6,189m above sea level. It is a mountain in the Himalaya of eastern Nepal. Island peak was actually a training peak used by Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing in 1953 and today it is one popular NMA peak among others. It is said that Island peak is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar which was separated by a col.
THINGS TO OBSERVE
Island expedition offers you a wonderful spectacular view of the Khumbu region from its summit. It faces Nuptse (7,879m) and the 8000m above peaks - Lhotse, Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar. On the summit, mountaineers can spot the Cho Polu (6,734m) rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar glacier. Additionally, if the weather conditions permit, Mt. Makalu (8,475m), Baruntse (7,129m) and famous expedition peak of Amadablam (6812m) etc. can also be visualized from the East. You will also get to explore the foothills of the world's highest mountain, Mt. Everest. You will also visit the most famous trekking destination in the world i.e. Everest Base Camp (5,357m) and Kala Patthar,for the up-close views of high mountains. You will also get a chance to roam around Sagarmatha National Park where you can witness different flora and fauna, endangered animals, deep valleys and glaciers etc.
HISTORICAL ACHIEVEMENT
The peak was named Island Peak in 1951 by Eric Shipton’s party since it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. In 1983, this peak was again renamed as Imja Tse but Island Peak remains famous and popular all over the world. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar which is separated by a small col that sits like an island in the sea of ice. It was first climbed in 1953 by C.Evans, A.Gregory, C.Wylie, T.Norgay, plus seven other Sherpas.
BEST SEASON
The best seasons for the Island Peak Expedition are spring (february to May) and autumn (September to December). Most of the tourists come during these seasons, so the routes may be a bit crowded. Some may prefer to avoid the crowds, and climb Island Peak during the winter months (December to February), when the weather is crisp and cold and the views of the mountains are crystal clear. If you are well prepared for the cold weather, the winter is also a great time to climb.
TIME DURATION
It takes 15 to 20 days in total to cover the whole trip of Island peak expedition. Your trip starts from Kathmandu, then fly to Lukla, trek to phakding, visit Namche bazar, Dingboche, Island Base Camp and climb Island peak and return back to base camp and following the same starting direction, your trip ends after arriving back to Kathmandu.
OVERALL COST
Normally, the cost for an island expedition starts from US $ 4,000 and it can be higher than these if you want yourself to stay in a high class hotel in a single room. So, the exact cost will vary.
REQUIREMENTS
To summit this peak you need to have a high level of physical fitness and moderate level of technical climbing.
Experienced- Climbers should have successfully completed a minimum of 3 Day Mount Rainier or Mount Baker Climb (or have similar experience).
Mental Ability- Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. The requirements are also based on your desire to have similarly skilled team members.
Travel Documents: PP size photos, valid passport, insurance paper, family members contact address etc.
Mountaineering equipments- Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Jummer, Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer etc.
Clothing and Wears- Snow google, Wool cap, Thermal Underwear, Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest,Neck Gaiter, Gloves etc.
Gadgets- Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight etc.
Other equipment: Sleeping bags, Bag packs, Sun stuff, Medical, Eating and Drinking stuffs, Toiletries, Fleece hats and so on.
Note: This is a trip requiring climbers to be in excellent physical condition among other NMA peaks.
GETTING THERE
The most common way of getting onto the trail is to fly to the small airport at Lukla. Numerous flights are made daily from Kathmandu, in small fixed-wing airplanes, taking around 30 minutes. However, bad weather frequently closes the airport, so it’s wise to prepare for delays if flying to Lukla.
The alternative to flying to Lukla is to trek overland from outside Kathmandu, the “pioneers’ route” that connects to the trailhead at Jiri and passes beneath Lukla. However, this isn’t recommended as an addition to a long trip such as climbing Island Peak, as it lengthens the expedition by about a week.
PERMIT AND REGULATIONS
For climbing island peak, you need to have following permits;
TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System)- NRS 1000 (USD 9) per person if they have come in a group and NRS 2000 (USD 18) per person if they have come individually.
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit- For entering the Sagarmatha National Park, the park that is home to the Mount Everest Region, you need to obtain an entry permit. This permit costs 30 USD + government tax.
Island Peak Climbing Permit- USD 250 during spring, USD 125 during autumn and USD 70. during winter/summer.
Permit should be taken from Nepal Mountaineering Association since height above 5800m and below 6584m peaks permit are given by them. This permit will be taken by your trekking company and will charge a specific amount of money. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Island Peak. Also, one needs to pay fees for Liaison Officer, his/her insurance, food allowance, Insurance of whole Nepali staff including porters in order to obtain permit and Garbage Deposit at ministry.
RESTRICTIONS
In Nepal, climbing Island peak imposed certain kind of age, health restrictions and they are;
Age- Minimum 16 and no restriction has been set in upper age till now
Health- Should have a strong body, risk taking mindset and health should be free from any kind of sudden attack diseases.
NOTE: Till now in Nepal, permits to climb mountains in Nepal are issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to 33 peaks and rest of others permits are issued by the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.
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