The Kavindrapur Sattal, also known as the Mansion of Kavindra, served as a Dharamshala, or public rest house, for weary travellers and wandering holy men. Imagine a place where stories, poetry, and music merged in perfect harmony, providing respite and inspiration to those who sought solace within its walls.
Initially built to appease the wrath of the deity Narasiha, the half-man, half-lion incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the temple holds a deep sense of spiritual significance. Legend has it that Pratap Malla, the visionary ruler who deemed himself the "Lord of Poets," sought forgiveness for impersonating Narasiha in a dance. Intriguingly, some scholars suggest that the temple's true dedication lies to Nrityantha, the god of dance and music, reflecting Pratap Malla's artistic prowess and love for the performing arts.
Regardless of its divine purpose, the Kavindrapur Sattal holds an aura of grandeur and grace. Picture a three-story structure with an awe-inspiring facade facing west. Although the upper levels were unfortunately destroyed in the 1934 earthquake and never reconstructed, remnants of their former glory remain, whispering tales of a bygone era. A remarkable sketch by Rajman Singh from 1844 provides a glimpse into the temple's original form, featuring spacious wraparound windows and a pyramidal peak, creating a visually striking spectacle.
As you step inside, you'll be greeted by intricate woodwork adorning the middle level. The carved brackets supporting the projecting bay windows showcase the mastery of Nepali craftsmanship, leaving visitors in awe of their beauty. While the age of the deities on the carved struts remains uncertain, their artistry is undeniably first-rate, exemplifying the devotion and skill of the artisans who crafted them.
Immerse yourself in the architectural splendor as you marvel at the five-part window at the center of the middle level. Dating back to the 17th century, this window is a true testament to the creativity and ingenuity of the craftsmen of that era. The central blind window, flanked by two functional windows with elegant trefoil arches, creates a mesmerizing symphony of light and shadow, especially during the enchanting late afternoon hours.
The Kavindrapur Sattal isn't just a monument frozen in time; it's a living testament to Kathmandu's vibrant history. Even today, the temple complex buzzes with activity, serving as a vibrant center of commerce. Though the ground floor, once bustling with temporary stalls and vibrant market stalls, is now concealed behind latticed windows, the energy and spirit of the Maru-tol square can still be felt.
If you're lucky, you may even witness traditional dances held within the temple's premises, infusing the air with a sense of celebration and reverence. Whether these dances are performed to pacify Narasiha or to honor the deity of dance and music, they add an extra layer of enchantment to your visit.
So wander through the hallowed halls of the Kavindrapur Sattal, where centuries-old stories echo through time. Lose yourself in the splendor of its architecture and appreciate the mastery of woodwork, and let the rhythm of the trefoil arches transport you to a realm where art, spirituality, and history intertwine. Visit this hidden gem in Kathmandu, and you'll discover a world that will captivate your imagination and leave you yearning for more.
By: Daizy Dharewal
Photo Credits: Asian Historical Architecture
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